AHAs vs. BHAs: Here’s what they do
What are AHAs and BHAs?
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) are two categories of hydroxy acids widely utilised in skincare for exfoliation.
What are Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)?
AHAs, including glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acids, are derived from various natural sources like sugar cane, milk, and almonds. As water-soluble acids, they primarily affect the skin's surface layers making them a great choice for brightening, tackling fine lines and smoothing the skins texture.
How they work
AHAs dissolve the bonds that hold dead skin cells together on the epidermis, facilitating the shedding of these cells. This accelerates cell turnover, leading to a brighter complexion, more uniform skin tone, and smoother texture.
What they do
Particularly efficacious in addressing fine lines, hyperpigmentation, enlarged pores, and enhancing skin luminosity, AHAs also boost hydration by improving the skin's natural moisturising factors.
What are Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)?
The most prevalent BHA in skincare is salicylic acid, typically extracted from willow bark. Its oil-solubility enables it to penetrate into the pores effectively and its anti-bacterial properties make it a great choice for those suffering with breakouts and excess oil production.
How they work
BHAs work both inside the pores and on the surface, dissolving the mix of sebum and dead skin cells, which can lead to acne. Their deep penetration also allows them to exert anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects, reducing acne-associated redness and preventing future breakouts.
What they do
BHAs are outstanding for managing oily skin, acne, blackheads, and whiteheads. They are also suitable for sensitive skin prone to redness and rosacea, owing to their anti-inflammatory qualities.
Why Is Sunscreen Crucial When Using AHAs and BHAs?
Both AHAs and BHAs can heighten skin sensitivity to the sun, underscoring the importance of incorporating sunscreen into your skincare regimen. It's also advisable to start with lower concentrations and build up gradually to avert skin irritation.
To find out which is best for your skin, take our skin quiz for your personalised skincare recommendations.
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FAQs
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Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) are exfoliating acids used in skincare. AHAs, derived from fruits and milk, are water-soluble and effective for surface skin exfoliation. BHAs, like salicylic acid, are oil-soluble, penetrating deeper into pores and ideal for oily, acne-prone skin.
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AHAs facilitate exfoliation by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells on the surface, revealing brighter, smoother skin. BHAs penetrate deeper, clearing excess oil and dead skin cells from pores, and possess anti-inflammatory properties.
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The primary difference is their solubility and area of action. AHAs are water-soluble, targeting the skin's surface and are great for dry, sun-damaged skin. BHAs are oil-soluble, working deeper within pores, making them suitable for oily, acne-prone skin types.
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Combining AHAs and BHAs is possible, but caution is advised due to the risk of skin irritation. It's recommended to start by alternating their use or applying them at different times.
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AHAs are best suited for dry, ageing, or sun-damaged skin due to their surface-level exfoliation and hydrating properties. BHAs are ideal for oily, acne-prone skin, thanks to their deeper penetration into pores and anti-inflammatory effects.
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When incorporating AHAs and BHAs into skincare, common side effects can include redness, irritation, and increased sensitivity to sunlight. Overuse may lead to skin dryness or peeling. It's crucial to start with lower concentrations of these acids and to gradually increase their usage, allowing the skin to adjust.
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AHAs and BHAs should be introduced into a skincare routine gradually, starting with 2-3 applications per week. It's important to observe how the skin reacts before increasing usage. Some formulations are gentle enough for daily use, but this depends on individual skin tolerance and the specific product's strength
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BHAs, particularly salicylic acid, are effective in treating acne due to their ability to penetrate deeply into pores and clear out blockages, while AHAs can help with surface irregularities and texture.
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Sunscreen is essential when using AHAs or BHAs, as these acids increase skin sensitivity to UV rays. Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 daily.
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For AHAs, products containing glycolic or lactic acid are popular choices, suitable for improving skin texture and hydration. For BHAs, look for salicylic acid-based products, which are effective in penetrating deep into pores to combat oily and acne-prone skin. Always choose formulations from reputable skincare brands and consider your specific skin type and concerns when selecting a product.
